Five hours on more very bad road got us to Bukit Lawar. This village was washed away buy a flood caused by illegal logging in 2003, and subsequently rebuilt. Accommodation here was a tree hut on the edge of the jungle. We were instructed to shut the windows at night or we'd wake up with a monkey in the bedroom - we did as instructed. Our enormously pregnant hostess produced such outstanding food from her humble kitchen we were a little sad to move on...